Words by Kimberly Haddad
@dzhus.conceptual.wear | irinadzhus.com
BASIC: This collection is dedicated to the anatomy of the human body and is quite unique. Can you share the story of where this idea was conceived?
DZHUS: I’ve always been enraptured by the architectonics of the human physique, as well as the amazing structure of all biological existences. Since all of my designs are very tailored and feature experimental cutting solutions, playing up a garment’s fit in a non-conformist way can be as inspiring as the human shape and the most peculiar anatomic details. At art school, plastic anatomy was one of my favorite classes. It gave me priceless knowledge which, eventually, formed my vision of the body as both a subject and an object of fashion design.
BASIC: If there was a soundtrack to your fall 2019 collection, what three songs would we hear?
DZHUS: The thing is that I don’t associate my musical taste with my creativity. Emotionally and culturally, I enjoy gypsy and cabaret songs, whereas when I art direct DZHUS shows, I seek experimental noise and industrial sounds. In my mind, these music styles are the most harmonious with the aesthetics of my design.
BASIC: What kinds of emotions or reactions do you hope people will have when viewing your collection?DZHUS: I’m extremely pleased when people who value conceptual fashion admit the distinctive identity of DZHUS design and the innovation we contribute to fashion. But what is even more delightful is seeing people wear our clothing, feeling themselves as unique and using our creations as a reflection of their own one-of-a-kind personality.
BASIC: If you could hide a secret message inside the quilted garments, what would it be and why?DZHUS: Who said my secret message isn’t there yet?
BASIC: Do you have any hidden super powers that have helped you create this line?
DZHUS: Probably the same powers that have helped me make all my designs. One is my unusual ability to see any object’s structure, exaggeratedly and above all other aspects (color, emotional context, etc.). I kind of have an inset filter in my mind. And the other strong motivator is my fear that if I don’t bring these concepts from the mental dimension to the physical world, they will remain unmaterialised forever, hanging helplessly in between realities.
BASIC: Tell us about a collection or design you’ve always wanted to create, but still hasn’t become a reality.
DZHUS: As a vegetarian and eco-minded person, I obviously create ethical products, using cruelty-free materials and technologies. However, when it comes to real sustainability, it is hardly possible to achieve it working in my homeland, Ukraine. Most of the fabrics and trims we use come from Italy and Japan, but as long as we produce minimal quantities, often within short time frames, we cannot source directly from the manufacturers and have to purchase from local resellers. Hence, we are unable to track all the production links and usually just have to believe our suppliers regarding the sustainable origin of the materials. I would be so happy to release a totally transparent line and be sure it isn’t only friendly towards specific animals, but also to the planet in general.