@austin.james.smith
austinjamessmith.com
NYC-based jewelry designer Austin James Smith is the epitome of unapologetic extravagance. His edgy medieval- inspired aesthetic paired with a futuristic punk edge caters to a diverse range of individuals, challenging traditional ideas of adornment with his intense artistic flair. While his latest collection, UTOPIA, takes on a more simplified design approach, Smith continues to push the envelope by exploring the concept of a “utopian human” stripped of defining personal characteristics and the conflicting desire to conform while also rebel. With celebrity admirers such as Bad Bunny, Doja Cat, Julia Fox, and Billie Eilish, Smith disrupts and redefines luxury in the jewelry industry with his beautifully chaotic maximalist creations.
What initially sparked your interest in jewelry design, and how did you transition from a passion to a successful career?
I initially found interest in jewelry design almost by accident. Prior to starting the brand, I was making sculptural costume on my face for photographs as my main form of art and expression. After making these creations, I would feel almost lacking in my daily life without some sort of item of my creation on my body. Jewelry served as a bridge for me to bring my personal touch out of the studio and into my daily life.
Can you walk us through your design process when creating your maximalist pieces? How do you balance boldness with wearability in your creations?
This is always a trust-the-process situation, especially with jewelry! I think it’s important to initially conceptualize the idea in its full fantasy, and then take a step back and try to imagine it in different scenarios. I ask myself, who would wear this, where would they wear this, would I even wear this? As much as I love creating something completely unique and out-of-the-box, these questions are important for bringing something out of the costume/art realm and into the fashion realm of wearability. Some of my most tame pieces are the pieces I gravitate towards wearing every day. It’s fun to have those pieces with the brand, as well as creating pieces that are more extravagant and really meant to be something that is a bit more of a risk and not going to be someone’s everyday go-to piece.
What fictional universe or time period serves as the biggest inspiration for your futuristic, medieval-inspired designs, and how do you modernize these influences in your work?
I am definitely hugely inspired by any medieval era, but I have always enjoyed the idea of medieval aesthetics in our current age. I am greatly into the whimsical element of medieval tropes, dungeons and dragons, a relentless king, jousting and sword fighting, and avant-garde, over-the-top gaudy outfits. It all feels so foreign to our current way of life, and almost this raw life or death way of living. While technology is very advanced, it has become so streamlined to the point where everything feels a bit sterile or lacking adventure. These jewelry pieces have always been a way to remind myself to have some fun and not be so serious.
Describe the creative process behind your UTOPIA collection. What deeper message or societal issue were you hoping to address through your jewelry pieces?
With every phase I’ve released, I have always liked to have some deeper conceptual basis behind them for why I went that aesthetic route. The idea of UTOPIA was picturing a future society in which everything became perfect, but almost so perfect that it actually had the opposite effect, stripping the world of its uniqueness and interest in order to achieve some level of perfection. The design of the pieces were very clean and sleek, yet still had some edgy flair. The imagery I created around the collection was very future-punk inspired to show the opposition to this utopia narrative I created.
In a world increasingly dominated by fast fashion, how do you see the role of artisanal, handcrafted jewelry evolving and maintaining its relevance in the industry, especially with your edgy aesthetic?
Honestly, I do find it hard to keep up with at times. Many of my popular designs have been ripped off on Ali Express and are being used by other brands. I constantly even get ads on Instagram of brands using my designs and even my images. It does get disheartening to see, but when you look at these brands, there is no heart or soul behind what they are doing. I think there will always be a place for those who try to be innovative and original with what they do and aren’t just band wagoning onto trends like these fast fashion brands do.
In what ways do you hope your jewelry challenges traditional notions of adornment and encourages individuals to embrace their uniqueness unapologetically?
I’ve always been drawn to things that I feel like NYC-based jewelry designer Austin James Smith is the epitome of unapologetic extravagance. His edgy medieval- inspired aesthetic paired with a futuristic punk edge caters to a diverse range of individuals, challenging traditional ideas of adornment with his intense artistic flair. While his latest collection, UTOPIA, takes on a more simplified design approach, Smith continues to push the envelope by exploring the concept of a “utopian human” stripped of defining personal characteristics and the conflicting desire to conform while also rebel. With celebrity admirers such as Bad Bunny, Doja Cat, Julia Fox, and Billie Eilish, Smith disrupts and redefines luxury in the jewelry industry with his beautifully chaotic maximalist creations. I’m not allowed to do. But whenever I get that feeling, I stop and ask myself why am I not allowed to do it? What bad could really happen if I want to do that? By forcing myself through those barriers, I’ve allowed myself to become more comfortable with who I am and connect better with others. I love the idea of helping others get to that point as well.
What deep emotions or experiences do you draw upon when creating your cutting-edge pieces?
Anytime I am making jewelry, I feel as though I am making something that is a direct representation of myself, something that I will be wearing publicly as a sign of my identity. I always feel a deep sense of individualism and find it very rewarding to be able to connect with people about it visually. My favorite thing is when someone doesn’t know that I am a jewelry designer and they ask me about the pieces I am wearing when I am out. They are usually a pretty interesting person themselves and I love that the jewelry helped bridge that barrier with someone I have something in common with.
Can you share an example of a piece that elicited a strong reaction from your clientele, and how you embraced the controversy?
I think my most controversial piece has to be my Iron Maiden necklace. It was literally designed based around the iron maiden medieval torture device. I think more so, I was surprised at the number of times people had related it to a cock cage, because it is circular. The idea of a spiked cock cage is horrific, but if someone thinks that’s what it should be then it’s not my place to judge what they do with it!
If your jewelry could tell a story, what wild and thought-provoking tale do you think it would unfold?
I think each collection tells its own story. Out of all eight collections I’ve released so far, it’s really been a timeline of my life for the past eight years. I can put a timestamp on each piece and define who I was as a person at each time. I have really grown a lot through each collection. I even have a tattoo on me based around imagery from each release.
What advice would you give to those struggling to find their true selves and overcome societal pressures in order to live unapologetically?
Act now, think later. If you want to do it, just do it. It doesn’t matter what anybody else thinks. The right people will always find their way to you and the wrong people will naturally filter out.
