Words by MORGAN MANTILLA
Fashion Illustrations by OLGA ARNOLD LUMIKENE @LUMIKENE
GUO PEI @guopei
Explore death and the afterlife in Guo Pei’s FW19 collection. Kindred spirits of Siamese twins glide down the runway in an ornate pannier skirt covered in violent creatures poised to strike. Black crows swooping, dragons snarling, rams primed to charge and snakes that travel around the shoulders of each model, binding them together. Stiff skirts contrast with fluttery fabrics and colorless creations are punctuated by jeweled tones and rich textures. A black crow’s nest sits in disheveled hair, calling upon Edger Allen Poe and his mastery of the macabre.
IRIS VAN HERPEN @irisvanherpen
If you were to dive into the unseen depths of the ocean, this is what you may find beneath the black waters. Shapes range from undulating spheres and waves that melt into radio frequencies as shapeshifting garments of chameleon colors change before your very eyes—simultaneously expanding with every movement. Each ripple and sway causes a play between sheer and opaque. Featuring iridescent pastels marked by black outlines, the occasional vibrant red or deep berry pop out for accent. Aptly named: Hypnosis.
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER @jpgaultierofficiel
A larger-than-life fur collar and lapel engulfs the head of the model. Garments that beg the question, is the model wearing it? Or is it wearing the model? Architectural power suits with belts that cinch like corsets. It’s pure whimsy. Deep blues, golden yellows and cool browns ground the collection, while electric greens, purples and pinks burst forth. Then, a sleek, entrancing interpretation of a predator appears. She’s covered in scales that catch the light, revealing a shadowy snake-like figure. Her vibrant feathery sleeves look like wings ready to take flight.
SCHIAPARELLI @schiaparelli
Schiaparelli’s latest collection exudes modern refinement. The past lingers while the present leads by revitalizing classic silhouettes and materials in a shimmering display of 2019 elegance. Stirrup glitter pants are paired with a high-low blouse that billows out to floor-length like a deconstructed gown. A speckled mango-colored leather dress flaunts a smattering of black feathers that act as an aura. From the pace of the models to the orchestral score, this collection inspires an appreciation for slowness and reflection in order to move forward.
